After a short rest at the hotel, we ventured out again, back to Musée des beaux-arts. Until January 20, they have a special exhibit: Once upon a time… Impressionism, Great French Paintings from the Clark. On Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings from 5 pm, the admission is only $10. It’s a beautiful show in a beautiful part of the museum. There were a lot of people visiting. It was wonderful to see pieces by Renoir, Pissarro, Boldini and one of my favourites: Danseuses au foyer by Degas. We wandered home admiring shop windows and bought some dinner and airplane snacks on the way back to the hotel. A memorable adventure to be sure!
We headed back towards the hotel in search of sustenance. Our hotel was right beside the Notre-Dame Basilica, which is incredible, especially at night all lit up. Very near the hotel is a lovely shop and tea house called Ming Tao Xuan, which we had wanted to try since the moment we saw it. We sat down in the beautiful dining area, and were presented with a VERY extensive tea list. We chose two teas, a Green Pu-Erh and an Oolong, plus vegetarian dumplings and spring rolls. We were given instruction on how to pour each type of tea and thoroughly enjoyed the experience, the tea and the snacks.
We woke up sad that this adventure was almost over, but the day was crisp and clear and we were excited to be out in it. After a lovely breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant, Sinclair (can’t speak highly enough of Le St-Sulpice Hôtel), we headed up to the Metro station. About 20 minutes later we were near the Montréal Botanical Gardens. It was open, but mostly prepared for winter so beds were empty and not too much to see; still a magnificent place to be, peaceful and quiet. It must be magical when all in bloom.

Chines GArden, my favourite. Just to the right of this exquisite view, men in hip waders were removing the apparatus of a lantern festival from a few nights before.

Lovely detail. I look forward to coming here again to learn about the creation of all these gardens.

GJ caught me admiring a beautiful yellow witch hazel in bloom. We used to have an orange one; I just love them.
We wandered back towards the Old Port through these wonderful neighbourhoods, looking for a few galleries and shops we had found on the internet. Three galleries we recommend visiting are: Arsenal, Darling Foundry and Parisian Laundry. Back to Vieux-Montréal and a warming snack. We ended the day having a delicious Vietnamese dinner in Chinatown.
We were pretty cold by the time we got to Atwater Market, which is incredible. It was the only one of Montréal’s many outstanding public markets we were able to visit. From there we wandered looking for somewhere to eat and found Midi 6. We enjoyed omelettes which included those perfect croissants for $7.75. And, of course, Hot Chocolate, my obsession. It was rich and delicious. The dollop of sweet cream on top was just enough.
Tuesday morning we were up early and headed out to explore the neighbourhoods of St-Henri, Little Burgundy and Griffintown. We could have taken the subway, but it was a clear, windy day and we decided to walk. From the bottom of St-Sulpice we turned right and headed out along the port and continued along the Lachine Canal. The walking and biking trails were unforgettable. Lots to see and very few people. I suspect in the summer and on most weekends more would be out enjoying this part of the city.
Leaving Mile End we headed down rue St-Urbain to rue Rachel and entered Parc du Mont-Royal through Parc Jeanne-Mance and past Monument à Sir-George-Étienne-Cartier. We thought we may as well walk up the paths a bit since we were there! So off we went. There were a lot of people walking and running. We made it up as far as Chalet du Mont-Royal and took in the extraordinary view from the Kondiaronk Belvedere. It was almost dark as we made our way down rue Peel towards our chosen dinner destination: Chinatown.
Day 10, which was Remembrance Day, it had been very cold. So on Monday I thought I would layer up with icebreaker and smart wool. My luck, it was a weirdly warm day and I suffered! But it was a fun day. We departed the hotel around 10 and took the Metro to the Mont Royal Station. Montréal has an exceptional transit and subway system. We took it several times and found the subway clean and efficient. Met up with our TO friends and had a great breakfast at Café el Dorado. Then we walked up through Mile End, window gazing and drinking coffee (GJ says it was “No shit, shut up and drink your coffee” coffee: possibly the best coffee he’s ever had) at Café Olimpico. Left our lovely friends and walked back towards Mont Royal.
For our first full day in Montréal, we met up with some friends who were visiting from Toronto. We enjoyed some yummy crêpes in Vieux-Montréal at a café called Muru, wandered around in Chinatown, explored Musée des Beaux-Arts (which is free for the permanent exhibits) and then left our friends and had delicious salads for dinner at M Café.
























































